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Wall Tie Failure - what should I look out for and when should I act?

- When it comes to wall ties, their importance can often be overlooked. It is commonly unknown that the wall ties in your home may have perished due to rust and erosion therefore causing the walls to move, crack and in worst case scenario collapse.But what signs should you look out for that this is happening in the walls around you? Here are some tips so you know when it is time to call us in. CracksCracks in plaster, brickwork and stonework can just be superficial but they may also be a sign of more serious settlement issues – the home settling more on one side than the other. Whether the cracks are diagonal (like stair steps), vertical or horizontal, if left, they could lead to foundation problems in the future. Random cracks can also present themselves internally too. Cracks above doors and windows for example could indicate a failed lintel or other structural issue.


This week on the Road with Target Structural Cotswolds

- This week me and Harry have been working at Swindon Magistrates Court.  The internal courtyard required crack stitching as you can see in the pictures below.  Crack stitching is a fantastic way to stop further cracking and subsidence. This is the work we were referring to in last weeks blog that was using Calcium Silicate Bricks. We started by cutting with my Makita 9 inch angle grinder. It is perfect for this work, I cut a slot of between 25 mm - 35 mm and making sure there is a distance of at least 500 mm each side of the cracks.  As you can see below I was installing over the top of windows as well to reinforce the masonry to stop the pressure from effecting that fixture due to cracking.  When cutting I use a vacuum attached to the grinder to stop unwanted dust being expelled everywhere.  For this I use the Starmix Safeplus I Pulse Certified M Class Vacuum attached to a dust free grinder hood. Does the job a treat and saves on tidy up, so would highly recommend!After this I hoover out the slots to remove the dust and then wash the slots out so no residue is left. Then it is time to cut the Bar Flex and dry fit it to make sure of a good application. For this job I am using 6 mm Bar Flex which I cut to size and when I know it is a good fit, it is time to install. For this I run a bead of Bond Flex into the back of the slot. Bar Flex has a CE Declaration of Performance and UKCA Declaration of Performance so it really does the job! I then fit the Bar Flex in and using the Bond Flex Gun again seal it with a layer over the top over the bar.  Then using my pointing trowel, point up and hey presto! The reinforcement is in place, the pointing makes it look like no work has been done and the masonry is reinforced. 


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